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Old 05-12-2010, 05:00 PM   #1
therink
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Rochester, NY
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Smile Cracked Floor- 2010 Outback Sydney 5'er 329FB

Hi, I am new to the forum but have been rv'ing for about 12 yrs now. Just purchased our fifth trailer, a 2010 Outback Sydney 329FB (2 months old). We love it so far but after two weekend trips I noticed a soft spot in the floor on two sides the heat vent by the galley sink. The floor gives about 1/2" or so around the vent. Upon removing the vent, I discovered that the crafty carpenter (if you want to call them that), got a little happy with the saw when cutting the vent opening in the sub floor and overextended two of the cuts by 2" or so. This created weak spots in the floor so much that the linoleum creases when walking there. I am sure it will only get worse and eventually "crunch". I read about this same problem in the out-backers forum. I am amazed at the sloppy craftsmanship here, this is a big deal, cause there is no easy fix. I can only assume what I am going to have to go through to take it back to the dealer, wait for Keystone to approve and then let them tear the underbelly open and repair. UGH. How could QC let this happen?
Other than simple nuances like lack of real heat in the front bedroom and no range hood outside vent exhaust (that was a surprise), we love the trailer. This floor thing really has me worried though. I wonder what other issues are just covered up??
Has anyone else experienced the same floor problem on a new unit? If so, how was warranty experience?
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Steve Rinker
Rochester, NY
2013 Outback Sydney 340FBH (12,280 lbs loaded-scale)

2015 GMC Sierra Denali 3500HD, SRW, Duramax, CC, SB (payload 3700)

https://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/...65/340FBH1.jpg
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Old 05-12-2010, 07:10 PM   #2
Festus2
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Welcome to the forum and sorry to hear about the floor near the kitchen area heat vent. I can't recall any other members who have posted here with a similar concern and hopefully your dealer and Keystone will rectify this problem without any hassle. In regards to the other two issues, there is a general concern with the lack of warm air that reaches the upper bedroom area and some members have tried a number of ways to improve the air flow.
The range hood venting exhaust problem may be a result of two things. If you look at the right hand side of the range hood, you should see a spring-like mechanism that may be in the closed position and preventing the hood fan and vent from exhausting properly.
This spring mechanism is not overly visible --- there is a small written sticker next to it explaining what should be done to make it work properly.
There is also a flap on the exterior of the RV where the fumes exit the RV and this flap may be in the closed position. There are two small plastic "locks" - one on each side - that can be turned allowing the flap to open and close.
Hope this helps somewhat and good luck with your floor and warranty claim with Keystone.
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Old 05-13-2010, 04:05 AM   #3
therink
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Thanks for your response.
There in fact is no outside stove vent. The range hood is a ventline "ductless" model that I verified on the Ventline website. The fan has a cheesy mesh filter and the air exhausts out vent holes on the side of the fan under the hood. What a piece or c**p. I dont know what Keystone was thinking, other than saving a few bucks by not having to put a hole though the ext wall. I feel the stove top is unusable for cooking if the vapors, steam cant be redirected outdoors.
Regarding the heat duct issue, I have read numerous posts about the issue and figure I will have to take the matter in my own hands, as Keystone likely will not do anything as that is the way it is designed. I will eventually replace the flexible duct connecting upper and lower duct runs with a rigid duct. Maybe that will help. Until then, electric heater will have to do.
As far as the cracked sub floor issue, I plan on calling the dealer today. Wish me luck.
Dont get me wrong, we love the trailer but it obvious Keystone cut a few corners on the production line.
Regards
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Steve Rinker
Rochester, NY
2013 Outback Sydney 340FBH (12,280 lbs loaded-scale)

2015 GMC Sierra Denali 3500HD, SRW, Duramax, CC, SB (payload 3700)

https://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/...65/340FBH1.jpg
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Old 05-13-2010, 05:00 PM   #4
Scooterbluz
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Sorry to hear Keystone has another unhappy customer. Welcome to the Keystone World. For these things being MADE IN AMERICA I am amazed at what they let go out the door.........
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Old 05-13-2010, 05:21 PM   #5
therink
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Not unhappy yet, just amazed how Keystone could let a bad saw cut on the floor sheathing make it onto a frame. It shows how the assembly people do pay little attention to detail. A bad floor is just an expensive warranty claim waiting to happen. I guess having rv problems are good problems to have. Do love the trailer, just not the floor. I never look forward to having to deal with warranty and bad service at rv dealers. Am looking forward to a wonderful summer in the new 5er with the family.
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Steve Rinker
Rochester, NY
2013 Outback Sydney 340FBH (12,280 lbs loaded-scale)

2015 GMC Sierra Denali 3500HD, SRW, Duramax, CC, SB (payload 3700)

https://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/...65/340FBH1.jpg
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Old 05-14-2010, 04:27 PM   #6
ftwildernessguy
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Personally, I wasn't disappointed that my Outback did not have an outside vent for the stove hood - this was a source of leaks in my Jayco and a real pain to deal with. We just open the kitchen ceiling vent when using the stove and crack the kitchen window if necessary to get more ventilation. Sure beats the mysterious water on the floor that came from the leaking vent in the Jayco.
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Old 05-15-2010, 06:39 PM   #7
therink
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Well, I couldn't stomach taking my rig to the dealer to repair the floor, not to mention having to wait until Keystone approved the warranty claim. I had been losing sleep thinking of Camping World tearing apart my 5'er, so I thought long and hard and decided to fix the floor my self. I basically, measured and cut 2 L-shaped pieces of plywood and screwed them to the sub-floor sheathing inside the heat duct. I carefully peeled up the linoleum around the vent and countersunk the deck screw heads so not to poke through the linoleum when finished. I have attached photos showing the overextended cuts on two of the corners of the heat duct opening, causing the floor to sink when walked upon near the vent (I give credit to the underpaid Keystone carpenter for this). I used a mirror to get the camera shots in the duct. I know that the long screws exposed in the duct look a bit rough, but I didn't have 2" screws. They are hidden in the duct so who cares. The floor is now fixed and I now can call Camping World and cancel my service appointment.
BTW- with the mirror and flashlight, I was able to inspect the entire duct to see why I wasn't getting heat to the front bedroom. I didn't see any blockage and could see the front bedroom 4" flex duct opening at the top of the duct near the front end of the sub-floor run. I noticed that where the main first floor rectangular duct ends at the front, it doesn't look to be very well sealed against the underside of the sub-floor. This could be where I am losing air flow to the front bath/bedroom. I will have to take a look at that when I replace the 4" upper/lower connector duct with a 6" rigid duct (I am planning on doing this anyway). One thing I didn't see was the 2" duct opening on the bottom for the 2" duct that is "supposed" to provide heat to the underbelly. Does anyone know where this underbelly duct is supposed to be located on the Outback 329fb? I figured it would be in the front where the holding tanks are.
Bottom line, I successfully repaired the floor and it no longer sinks or should I say crunches when walked on. It doesn't even move for that matter. Thanks for the feedback
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__________________
Steve Rinker
Rochester, NY
2013 Outback Sydney 340FBH (12,280 lbs loaded-scale)

2015 GMC Sierra Denali 3500HD, SRW, Duramax, CC, SB (payload 3700)

https://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/...65/340FBH1.jpg
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Old 05-15-2010, 07:37 PM   #8
Festus2
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Sometimes, it is far easier for your stress level and piece of mind by just doing it yourself. You now know that the repair has been done properly and to your satisfaction and without the possible hassle of dealing with Keystone and the dealer. I think once you tackle the other issue of the ducting to the upper bedroom and put in rigid ducting, you will find that you have a bit more heat in that area. The warm air will still have to travel a fair distance and go around corners so I doubt if you will see a really big improvement. When you get this 2nd project completed, let us know what you did and the results.
Now you can relax. Get out an enjoy your new unit.
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