What does rec/con breaker control exactly?

[rjsurfer]

I noticed when I turn off the rec/con breaker I lose the lights and some 110v outlets. Which is a royal pain when trying to just shut off the converter to run the a/c via generator.

Has anyone else had issues with this?

Why did Keystone set it up like that?

Is it just a matter of pulling the panel out and adding a breaker then move the extra circuits to their own new breaker keeping the converter on its own?

Does Lowes sell those small breakers by the way it might not be a bad idea to buy a few to keep as spares?

Thanks

Ron W.

[JRTJH]

Your profile doesn't indicate which model RV you have, so it's difficult to tell if you've got a 50 Amp or 30 Amp electrical system.

REC/CON indicates "receptacles/converter" and yes, some of the receptacles are tied in with the converter. The reason you lose the 12 VDC lights when you turn off that breaker is the converter is disabled. (I'd think the battery should still provide power to the lights????) and you'll also lose some of the receptacles as well. The remaining receptacles are probably on the GFI circuit breaker ??

If you have an open space, it would be simple to move the converter to its own breaker and yes, the circuit breakers for WFCO power distribution systems are conventional breakers and should be available at the "big box stores". Remember that most of the RV wiring is AWG 14, so it's limited to a 15 Amp breaker. To "upgrade" to a 20 Amp breaker would require replacing the AWG 14 Romex with AWG 12.

Good Luck

[rjsurfer]

Good info.

Added signature data.

Ron W

[hankpage]

Ron, Like John said ... it is a simple job adding another breaker to your panel. If there is not a blank space you can use a "piggy-back" breaker to replace the single that is there now. Your trailer is similar to mine so there should be room for one more breaker. Your lights should work off your battery when the converter is off. (I think) If they do not or your battery is dead your fridge will not be working either. (What good is a/c if the beer gets warm.) Even on gas the fridge needs 12v dc to operate. If your gen can not handle the combined converter and a/c consider what you have plugged into the outlets also. Hope this helps, Hank

[rjsurfer]

I took the front panel of the electric box off yesterday (installed HD converter for new golf cart batteries) and found two leads going to converter breaker. One obviously goes to converter assembly and the second went into another run of Romex. I'm thinking all I have to do is take out that second wire and connect it to its own new breaker and I'm good to go.

The funny thing is the new converter a Powermax 4 stage, came prewired with that second wire already Y'd to the converter wire going to breaker??? Its almost as if most WFCO's are wired that way??? Very strange, got me scratching my head.

http:// http://www.bestconverter.com/55-Amp-4-Stage-Main-Board-Replacement_p_522.html#.VG8D5mgo7MI

Ron

[rjsurfer]

Op back, I finally got around to adding another 15amp breaker and sure enough I took off the second AC wire off the rec/con breaker and moved it to one section of the new breaker and now when I turn off the converter breaker that string of AC receptacles stay on as they should.

It funny how the new converter had been pre wired for that setup. That means all WFCO 55amp converters are wired that way. I do see that Keystone saves money by not adding another breaker but that's pretty cheap even for Keystone.

Unless there is another reason to run a string of outlets on the same breaker as the converter?

Ron W.