Anyone own the cougar 336bhs?

[cw3jason]

Originally Posted by nellie1289

Has any of you owners done any "roof maintenance" or greasing of your landing gear. I guess my primary questions are:

1) what do I need to do to the roof for maintenance and any seals up there along edges etc. Mine is in covered storage anytime its not being used but when cleaning I can already see spots where the good old factory workers did a sloppy job of sealing edges etc. what do you use and how?

2) how do I lubricate my landing gear, are their grease fittings, etc? Dry lube? what gives

3) finally, what about bearings etc. anything to maintain on the axles? can I do myself?

Novice at all this stuff.

1) inspect and seal your roof where needed at least twice a year. use dicor self leveling lap sealant. Cleaning your roof can be done when you feel like it, Use a mild soap or detergent. like dawn dish soap. You do not need to waste money on expensive cleaners.

2) this depends on the type you have if you have grease fittings then yes you can lube at least once a year. If no grease fittings, then it is a dry bolt setup and you just replace the bushings once they wear out.

3) Bearings are recommended repack with grease once a year or 10,000 miles. this is also a great time to inspect your brakes.

[281bullet]

Originally Posted by nellie1289

Has any of you owners done any "roof maintenance" or greasing of your landing gear. I guess my primary questions are:

1) what do I need to do to the roof for maintenance and any seals up there along edges etc. Mine is in covered storage anytime its not being used but when cleaning I can already see spots where the good old factory workers did a sloppy job of sealing edges etc. what do you use and how?

2) how do I lubricate my landing gear, are their grease fittings, etc? Dry lube? what gives

3) finally, what about bearings etc. anything to maintain on the axles? can I do myself?

Novice at all this stuff.

For roof maintenance I wash mine a couple of times a year with just soapy water, check all seals for cracks, I have used a tan dicor lap sealant self leveling product #501LST. It comes in a caulking tube. The problem is you open it and only has a limited open shelf life.

Landing gear: I haven't lubed mine, looking to see what other have to say. I haven't seen any grease fittings.

Axle bearings I have not done on this camper yet, It is like any other camper in the spring I usually take the wheel bearings all apart, Inspect, re grease, and change seals (Cheap). I didn't do it this spring we only had a few trips last season. The camper stayed at the campground for 8 weeks.

[336]

Ok, first trip in the books. Tows unbelievably better than our 38' TT. All in all everything was good. The snap holder for the bathroom pocket door lasted about 15 miles im guessing. Just won't snap anymore, apparently it's wore out after about five snaps. I agree on the kitchen lights. Hard to find in the dark. I was thinking of just changing the pendants to a lighted switch like the water heater ones. But always on. Maybe a different color. That would make finding it a lot easier. I think they could have spared the few inches and put a full queen bed. Prob be ordering one in the future. I think you will still be able to walk around. That xtra couple inches really makes a difference. I hate my feet hanging off the end. And I'm dumbfounded with the kitchen sink drain valve. Horrible location what a pain. Why couldn't the put that closer to the side of the trailer or run a cable to the other valves in the basement. And after using my black tank flush and disconecting the hose, water ran out of the camper line. Shouldn't that have a back flow preventer? Is the backflow preventer closer to the tank so the line drains for winterizeing? I'm gonna put a backflow preventer in it in the docking station just to be safe. Other than that nothing but rave reviews. I used my label maker to label the slide controls in the control panel. Everything else worked as it should. I love the leveling system. The return to truck mode is great. What a handy feature. I can hook up in about 1/2 the time it took with the TT. DW loved everything. All of the complaints are on my end of the operations. Fit and finish wise no problems. Tons of storage. We love it

[Cabindweller]

Good to hear 336.

We also completed our maiden voyage this weekend. Other than a little "tail dragging" coming out of our driveway, it was a flawless trip! I will be modifying my driveway to eliminate this. The camper was extremely comfortable all weekend. Hitching and unhitching (and leveling) took about 1/3 as long as it used to with my TT. The fifth wheel towed very nicely as well!

Other than the location of the galley drain valve (which 336 also mentioned), I'm very pleased with the whole setup! Wife and kids were thrilled also!

[nellie1289]

congrats to both of you!

[cant_remember_ID]

Nice report you two. Glad you're happy with it. I agree the galley drain valve isn't the most convenient. I'll be interested as you make adjustments and modifications. Our next planned trip is memorial day, but I may have to find another weekend sooner. Hate to see it sitting around with nothing to do.

[336]

So my I looked into the black tank flush issue. (Dumps out a little water from connection when I disconnect hose). I took off the screen on connection port and there is no check valve. Checked the city water port (same exact port ) and it has a spring check valve in it. Dealer says that's normal and black flush has a vacuum breaker installed further down line. I found some info on this on other posts, prob under the sink I think. Ok all makes sense. But wouldn't a check valve at the connection port stop the water pouring into the docking station when I disconnect. Seems silly to not have it. Is dealer bs me? Do you guys have a check valve on both ports or just the city? Dealer won't give me a check valve as he said that's how it is. May just order one.

[Weber]

Originally Posted by 336

So my I looked into the black tank flush issue. (Dumps out a little water from connection when I disconnect hose). I took off the screen on connection port and there is no check valve. Checked the city water port (same exact port ) and it has a spring check valve in it. Dealer says that's normal and black flush has a vacuum breaker installed further down line. I found some info on this on other posts, prob under the sink I think. Ok all makes sense. But wouldn't a check valve at the connection port stop the water pouring into the docking station when I disconnect. Seems silly to not have it. Is dealer bs me? Do you guys have a check valve on both ports or just the city? Dealer won't give me a check valve as he said that's how it is. May just order one.

good to know about the flush. I put a shut off at the hose end and just turn it off before unhooking. the thought of water from the black tank coming out did not sound good. glad you like the camper. We took ours out this weekend and I learn something new each and every time we take it out. I hope by the end of the season I will have my system down and all organized. probably not but it is a learning process.

[281bullet]

I just changed the mattress (foam pad) with a regular queen size bed. What a huge difference. It was a bit of a struggle to get it in but we did it. There is still room to walk in the front of the bed.

[nellie1289]

I have actually been pleasantly surprised with the matress in the main bedroom. it is pretty comfy night sleep.

[336]

I have a black hose I use for the back outside kitchen tank. I then rinse it out and use it for the black tank. I have no just been unhooking it at the site water bib first instead of in the docking station. I think any kind of backflow preventer or shutoff will impede the function of the vacuum breaker. Don't want to do that. Took a little thinking to get it figured out. I think this method is best practice. Took the rig down 81 in PA to Hershey this weekend. Worst ride in America by my vote. And had a large screw pop thru the floor behind the kitchen island. Well kinda upset and now I have a hole in the floor. Basically impossible to fix without butchering the floor so I guess I will just deal with it. Floor mat usually covers it when we are camping. I screwed it back down but I'm kinda concerned, if it pops back up it could possible get caught on the slide coming in or out and do some real damage. Gonna email dealer today. Might glue it in or something. [/URL][/IMG][/IMG][/IMG]

[336]

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[336]

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[JRTJH]

Vinyl flooring repairmen can do "wonders" to repair damage such as yours. When finished, it's almost impossible to see the repair. You might want to contact your dealer and have it repaired on Keystone's dime (warranty).

Not repairing it will allow any water that should be on the kitchen floor to enter the space between the vinyl and the subfloor. Although probably not enough to cause "water damage", a constant dampness (even from winter condensation) could be enough to get mold established under the vinyl. That could cause problems later on. I'd get it fixed while there's still time.

[GADuv]

So I finally finished the install of my new generator plug and transfer switch this weekend. I was able to fish the power cord under the front compartment into the basement and then into the area where the distribution panel is located. I will now be able to run my Champion generator in the bed of the truck if needed for those quick stops on long trips.

[nellie1289]

That's pretty clever GADUV, you ever thought about running the generator while going down the road now with that setup? Could run the ac inside etc.

[nellie1289]

Hey everyone. been doing some research on how to hook my satellite up the trailer and after a lot of research I found this schematic someone on this site put together. I think to use your dish you would just hook the satellite into the satellite in in the left forward compartment, then put your box in the main entertainment unit and connect it to the bottom plug in there, then hook up the tv through HDMI off your Dish box. I haven't tried mine yet but I am positive this is going to work. I read a lot about how you cant run it through the cable input because of the amp and multiple splittings to make the amp and antenna work on every output in the trailer(Bunkhouse, main living, bedroom, and front hatch). I am sure this is why its wired this way. So you can have satellite in your main room and leave everything else hooked up to antenna/over the air etc.

[nellie1289]

So I actually went and hooked up the dish to the main tv tonight. Simple. Just hooked up the dish to the satellite prep line in front left hatch and went to main tv and connected coax from bottom port(dedicated like for dish) to receiver and then receiver to the tv using hdmi. Worked perfect. No issues. All I have to do is grab one of my main receivers at the house. Pointed the dish using my iPhone compass. Got to 90% signal strength in less than ten minutes. Ran the whole thing off the champion 2800 and had the 13.5 btu ac blasting. Great!

[GADuv]

Originally Posted by Weber

The trailer needed a ladder for the bunks.
I just have to stain it to match. It works on both sides.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Does anyone have the dimensions on this ladder?

[JamieTFelts]

My husband and I installed a cable flush valve on the wretched valve you have to crawl under the coach to pull. You can find the full info here...

http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/sho...117#post202117