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05-11-2012, 02:02 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Morgan, UT
Posts: 8
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Trailer Brakes Weak?
I have a Cougar 292RKS fifth wheel. I'm thinking I might have a brake problem. I'm towing with a 2011 3500 Silverado with the integrated trailer brake controller.
I have adjusted all the trailer brakes but I cannot seem to get the brakes to the point of lock up even with the controller at its maximum setting. The brakes definitely are engaging but don't seem to be applying hard enough.
Any thoughts about where I might look for the cause?
Thanks.
Perry
Morgan, UT
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05-11-2012, 02:13 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: SoCal
Posts: 1,739
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If you pull the breakaway pin while parked (batteries hooked up), what happens if you pull forward?
I know that controllers show how much current is going to the brakes, but I’m not sure how it arrives at that number. How much current is it showing going to the brakes?
__________________
-Scott, DW, DG, DB, and DD
2011 Passport 2590BH
2009 Ford F150 SuperCrew F X4 5.4L w/Max Tow
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05-11-2012, 02:14 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: North Texas
Posts: 1,000
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Do you have the EZ-Lube wheel bearings? If so, they might have been greased without rotating the wheel. This might cause the bearing cup in the back to fail, and thus drip grease into the brake drum. Meaning that your brake shoes would be covered in grease.
Ron
__________________
2011 Alpine 3640RL (Beauty)
(Gone! Now replaced by Beauty3)
2016 Ford F-450 (The Beast)
Diesel 4x4, DRW, LB, CC
Comfort Ride Hitch
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05-11-2012, 02:17 PM
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#4
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Morgan, UT
Posts: 8
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Ill try pulling the breakaway pin and see what happens.
The integrated controller does not have a current indicator so I'd have to hook up an external meter to find out. What kind of current should I expect?
Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2
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05-11-2012, 02:26 PM
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#5
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Morgan, UT
Posts: 8
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I do have the ez lube bearings. In fact that its exactly what lead me down this path. One of the grease seals had been damaged at the factory (metal part was dented) and when I greased the bearings I contaminated the linings on that wheel.
I replaced the linings and adjusted all the brakes. I don't think any of the other wheels have any grease contamination but honestly I haven't pulled them all. I discovered the one that had leaked by seeing the grease soaked lining thorough the adjustment hole. The other the wheels look dry. This is where i'm at now.
Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2
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05-11-2012, 03:00 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Full-timing
Posts: 447
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Either the Keystone manual or the Dexter Axle manual (I forget which) mentions that you may not necessarily be able to lock the wheels depending on the size of the brakes, weight of the trailer, etc., so you may not necessarily have a problem. I don't think it is lining contamination as that should affect only the contaminated wheel (unless all are, possible but unlikely.)
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05-11-2012, 04:42 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Bessemer, Alabama
Posts: 323
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I had the same problem and found out I was losing voltage because the wire on the trailer was too small causing a voltage drop. I replaced all the wiring from the junction box at the front all the way back to each magnet. The factory wiring was 14 ga and according to dexter axle was minimum at best for the length of trailer I had. I changed it all out to 10 ga which is a little over kill but its what I had laying around the house. I had an increase in voltage of 2 volts at each magnet. It made a tremendous difference.
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2013 F150 XLT Supercrew EcoBoost
'08 Passport 280BH
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05-11-2012, 06:39 PM
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#8
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Versailles, KY
Posts: 34
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I just had my brakes replaced yesterday because of grease seals leaking and contaminated the brake shoes. I never knew the brakes were defective until I took the 5th wheel in to have the bearings packed. This is the first time the bearings have been serviced in over 6,000 miles or since the unit came out of the factory. I believe the seals where defective from the factory brcause I have never noticed any change in the way the camper slows down to a stop since I bought the camper. I have been told that trailer brakes should not lock up because you could loose control of your truck and trailer if the brakes lock up. In the past 12 months I have had the brakes replaced on a 20 foot car trailer and now the camper, and the brakes will not lock up on either unit.
__________________
1977 Avon
2003 Jayco Designer 32FKS
2011 Alpine 3640RL
2007 Dodge 3500
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05-11-2012, 06:57 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 1,605
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My brakes don't lock up on asphalt either with my integrated controller. I am thinking that it is due to the 12k weight of my fiver. I will say though that the brakes do work well though. I have no problem stopping and the trailer brakes are grabbing.
I would also like to hear what others are saying about how their gm integrated controller behaves with a heavy trailer.
Steve
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05-11-2012, 07:50 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Oregon
Posts: 192
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alpinecummin
I have been told that trailer brakes should not lock up because you could loose control of your truck and trailer if the brakes lock up. In the past 12 months I have had the brakes replaced on a 20 foot car trailer and now the camper, and the brakes will not lock up on either unit.
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You should not lock the brakes up but... as far as saying the trailer brakes should "not lock up", I would question. I have a Prodigy controller and I have never had a trailer that would not lock up if I sent enough power to it.
Not sure about the GM integrated controller and how it works but I can't imagine a controller that you couldn't adjust.
__________________
2012 Passport 26BHWE
2008 Dodge RAM 6.7 Cummins (I love my truck)
and a bunch of toys I don't need
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