Electrical Help

[halfprice]

I need some help from the experts here.

I have a 2008 Springdale 242 rear livingroom. It has two chairs and a table/cabinet between the chairs. This cabinet is where the power cord gets coiled into.



I want to remove this cabinet. We have two black labradors that we want to take camping with us. I need to remove the cabinet and chairs to use this area for the dogs at night to sleep.

I took the cover off the cabinet and the power cord is connected to an orange cable. Ther orange cable runs into the wall and up.





I then took the panel below the stove off to get a look at the back of the converter.

The orange cable is connected to the top of the converter.



This isnt a great pic but the best I could do with the cell phone.

Anyways is looks like the orange cable runs from the outside power cord up into the wall, gets snaked around through the trailer into the back side of the stove/kitchen area, and finally connects to the converter.

What I want to do is just cut the orange cable several feet behind the converter, drill a hole in the floor to run the cut orange wire down to the outside. Then I'll connect a male plug and istall it in an electrical box. When I need to hook up I'll connect my 30' extension cord to the male plug and I should have power.


I'm I missing something????????????? I am assuming the orange cable is a direct feed to the converter from the outside power.


Input Please!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks Jerry

[Hunter757]

Jerry, why not just install a plug right there in the current mouse hole then just install a small woden cover on the inside of the trailer. Might just take some 1x1's and piece of wood panel.

This would give the dogs planty of space to sleep and a you only need to install a plug untilizing your current mouse hole making a safe and clean install with out having to plug or drill more holes then you need to.

Here are a few to choose from on page 2. looks like Bob has the same idea.

http://www.marinco.com/files/media/product/catelogs/PP%2030A_10.pdf

Looking forward to seeing the end result, great upgrade!

Happy Camping

[Bob Landry]

I would do away with the metal junction box screwed to the floor, convert the shore power system to one with a detachable cord and connect the orange cable directly to the power inlet, allowing the orange cord to go up the wall. That would free up that entire space between the chairs and you wouldn't have to deal with stuffing the power cord back into the mouse hole.
The cost to do that would be for a power inlet and an end for the power cord.

Mine is shown below, the difference being that I used the under the cabinet space to install an EMS, but you wouldn't have to do that.

[halfprice]

Great ideas guys. Thanks. Guess I was over thinking what I needed to do. Looks like I'll need to pick up a few things next weekend and get to work.


Thanks again
Jerry

[mapleman3]

Originally Posted by Bob Landry

I would do away with the metal junction box screwed to the floor, convert the shore power system to one with a detachable cord and connect the orange cable directly to the power inlet, allowing the orange cord to go up the wall. That would free up that entire space between the chairs and you wouldn't have to deal with stuffing the power cord back into the mouse hole.
The cost to do that would be for a power inlet and an end for the power cord.

Mine is shown below, the difference being that I used the under the cabinet space to install an EMS, but you wouldn't have to do that.

Bob I like that install...I just got my new TT and already dislike the fact of the cord being shoved in and out of usable space. I noticed that I could still use my existing cord by putting a new end on it....what made you go with the big yellow cord?

Sent from my SCH-I510 using Tapatalk

[Bob Landry]

Before I had this trailer, I have a van that I did a partial Class B conversion on so I could camp and it had shore power, 12V and propane. I bought this cord back then to use with the van. Also, being in the marine business, I'm a fan of Marinco products. When I did the inlet conversion on the existing trailer, I put an end on the black cord that came with it and it travels with me as a spare SP cord.

[halfprice]

The work has began. To start here's a before pic



Front cover off and the wiring exposed.



Cabinet off and out.



The carpet is indented pretty bad but I think it will spring back a little with time. Parts of it came back with the ship vac and a brush. I vacuumed all the metal shavings and trash that was in the cabinet. The metal shaving come from the screw holes that were drilled into the floor to attach the anchors that held the wires to the floor. You would have though someone would have cleaned that out after the install.

I removed the power cord and mouse hole, feed the orange wire up the hole and then down to the mouse hole.





Jerry

[halfprice]

Now after I figure out, decide, how to hook the plug back up, I want to make a magazine rack that will cover all the holes.

THe rack that was attached to the cabinet is to small but is similiar to what I want to make.



The DW doesnt want a mag rack. She wants to find some wall paper to put up to cover the holes. I dont think it will look good unless to matches the other wall paper in the 5th.

I'll put up a good fight for the mag rack but something tells me I wont win I'll be wall papering soon.

[halfprice]

Originally Posted by Bob Landry

I would do away with the metal junction box screwed to the floor, convert the shore power system to one with a detachable cord and connect the orange cable directly to the power inlet, allowing the orange cord to go up the wall. That would free up that entire space between the chairs and you wouldn't have to deal with stuffing the power cord back into the mouse hole.
The cost to do that would be for a power inlet and an end for the power cord.

Mine is shown below, the difference being that I used the under the cabinet space to install an EMS, but you wouldn't have to do that.

This is what I would like to do if it fits in the old mouse hole and is narrow enough to fit in the wall. The cost is much higher than just putting a plug on the orange cable but I think this is much safer and way more stable.

I'll need two end plugs. One for the 20' cord I just removed and the 30' extension I just bought.

Jerry

[f6bits]

That’s all well and good, but where are the pictures of your puppies?

I’d say leave the wallpaper alone. You’ll never get the pattern to match, so you’ll always see the hole. I think you’ll have to deal with the inside of the power inlet being exposed inside your trailer and find a way to route your orange wire to it..

Is that 30’ extension cord a heavy duty one like your pull-out 20 footer? If it was made to extend your 20 footer, I’d leave it be.

If you’re removing the chairs, then it doesn’t make sense to have a magazine rack there. So call it a dog toy rack.

[JRTJH]

Your dealer can order a 4x8 ft sheet of papered luan from Keystone. If you notice, there is a molding (easily removed) on each side and the window is at the top, about 2.5 ft up from the floor. You can get matching paneling, just cut to fit, lay it over the existing wall and retack the side (corner molding) place a piece of end cap molding at the top, just under the window and it will look like it came from the factory that way. total weight, maybe 8 lbs. I did much the same thing as Bob did with the Marinco twist on connector, but took the magazine rack off the front of the cabinet, ordered a matching door (like the one on the end of the kitchen cabinets by the entry door) and we use it for additional storage. At any rate, I ordered all the parts from Keystone through my dealer and it was really cheaper than trying to build it in my workshop.

Don't try to "rig" something behind the two chairs to cover the hole, just replace/or cover the entire lower wall with new matching luan...

[halfprice]

Originally Posted by sdayman

That’s all well and good, but where are the pictures of your puppies?

I’d say leave the wallpaper alone. You’ll never get the pattern to match, so you’ll always see the hole. I think you’ll have to deal with the inside of the power inlet being exposed inside your trailer and find a way to route your orange wire to it..

Is that 30’ extension cord a heavy duty one like your pull-out 20 footer? If it was made to extend your 20 footer, I’d leave it be.

If you’re removing the chairs, then it doesn’t make sense to have a magazine rack there. So call it a dog toy rack.

They are not puppies, 10 1/2 and 11 years old





No problem getting the orange cord to the power inlet. Its already there. I just need to buy the power inlet. The 30' cord is an RV extension cord. The hate the 20' to short so I thought I would just replug one end of the 30' but you're probably right I should just leave it alone and if needed then I could hook it up to the 20' for long runs to the CG power.

We are not removing the chairs. I love those chairs. We will move them at night for the dogs to sleep.

Jerry

[halfprice]

Originally Posted by JRTJH

Your dealer can order a 4x8 ft sheet of papered luan from Keystone. If you notice, there is a molding (easily removed) on each side and the window is at the top, about 2.5 ft up from the floor. You can get matching paneling, just cut to fit, lay it over the existing wall and retack the side (corner molding) place a piece of end cap molding at the top, just under the window and it will look like it came from the factory that way. total weight, maybe 8 lbs. I did much the same thing as Bob did with the Marinco twist on connector, but took the magazine rack off the front of the cabinet, ordered a matching door (like the one on the end of the kitchen cabinets by the entry door) and we use it for additional storage. At any rate, I ordered all the parts from Keystone through my dealer and it was really cheaper than trying to build it in my workshop.

Don't try to "rig" something behind the two chairs to cover the hole, just replace/or cover the entire lower wall with new matching luan...

Great suggestion The DW will love this/ I'll have to give the dealer a call to see if they can get it and how long it will take them.

Thanks Jerry

[JRTJH]

When I ordered bulky items from the dealer, he had them shipped in the next delivered RV, so there was no shipping cost, I don't know how long you have before you "gotta have it", but if you can plug the outside with the marinco socket, and just leave the inside hole open, or cover it with something temporary and wait for delivery, it should be "free" that way. Otherwise, for Keystone to drop ship a 4x8 sheet of luan to your dealer would be pretty expensive in trucking freight charges. Just my thought on saving a few bucks.

[f6bits]

Not puppies? They’ve slowed down already? Our labs have always had loads of energy into their teens. Good luck with the mod. It’s always nice to free up some needed space.

[halfprice]

I went to the RV Lot where I bought the 5th today and spoke to the service manager. He had a
4x8 sheet of Luan that is a very close match to what I need. It might be the same its just hard to tell from the small piece I brought over for the comparison.

Anyways this sheet was left over from a job they had and it has small holes in the side and the edges are a little messed up. But he gave it to me for free.

All I need to do is cut it to size and get the seam tape or end cap and it will look good as new. Great customer service. Since its a whole sheet I think I'll use it to cover the entire rear wall across the back up to the window. Even if it is a little different it wont be noticed because the chairs block most of this area.

I will order the Marinco power supply and plugs tonight when I get home from work.

Jerry

[halfprice]

I received the Marinco power supply and plugs yesterday and did the install today. The outside alum siding isn't very level so I went a little heavy with the putty tape, but it looks like a good water proof seal.







I keep my outside carpets stored behind the spare tire and they were in the way of the plug. I moved the spare about a foot to the right. Not the plug can be accessed without any problems.



I cut an area of the paneling away to see what was going on in there. It was reenforced pretty well so I didn't have to do anything. As you can see the plug fits just fine in the old mouse hole.


I went back to the dealer to order the corner edge molding for the new paneling. They didn't have any in stock and couldn't find it in their parts catolog. They did have a roll of seam tape that matched my original paneling. The parts manager gave it to me. Free paneling and free tape. I love these guys at the dealership.

I went to Home Depot and bought two 8' pieces of beige paneling corner molding. $2.50 each. THe seam tape fits over the molding perfectly.

So this Sunday I'm bringing the trailer to my buddies house a few miles away from me. He has a full wood working shop in his garage. We'll cut down and install the paneling and molding.

If everything goes well this mods will have cost me $100. So far I'm pretty happy with how the plug turned out. I'll post a few pics Sunday night after the install of the paneling.


Thanks for all the great suggestions.


Jerry

[halfprice]

Here's the pic of the inside.




I guess you can't post 5 pics in one post.